Bechtold Thomas, Mussak Rita (eds.) Handbook of Natural Colorants

John Wiley and Sons, 2009. — 412 p.Written by scientists with specialised knowledge in the field, Handbook of Natural Colorants provides a unique source of information, summarising the present knowledge of natural colorants in depth. Supporting researchers in this emerging field of sustainable chemistry, it provides easy access to the theory and practice of natural colorants from different viewpoints, including agricultural, economic and legislative aspects.
Concentration on renewable resources, sustainability and replacement of oil based products are driving forces to reassess the potential of natural resources including natural colorants. The growing consumer interest in purchasing “green” products, which exhibit an improved environmental profile, can be seen as the break-through force needed to reintroduce natural colorants into the modern markets.
Also included are the pros and cons of natural dyestuffs, presenting some promising results and evaluating the potential use of vegetable dyes as alternatives to chemical-based ones with a focus on green chemistry.Topics covered include:History of coloration technology
Present position of natural colorants
Regional plant source availability
Specific application techniques
Chemical properties that professional dyers and chemists have to consider
Agricultural sourcing of dyes with an emphasis on renewable resources
Discussions on energy and material balance issues arising from the sourcing of materials
Production aspects of colorants, leading on to the key applications
Environmental and economic aspectsSeries Preface Historical AspectsHistory of Natural Dyes in the Ancient Mediterranean World
Maria J. MeloAncient Mediterranean World
Dyes from Antiquity
Unveiling the Secrets of Ancient Dyes with Modern Science
Ancient Reds
Anthraquinone Reds
Redwoods
Flavylium/Anthocyanin Reds
Ancient Blues
Indigo Blues
Anthocyanin Blues
Ancient Purple (Tyrian Purple)
Ancient Yellows
Flavonoid Yellows
Carotenoid Yellows
Chalcone and Aurone YellowsColours in Civilizations of the World and Natural Colorants: History under Tension
Dominique CardonThe Triumph of Mauvein: Synthetic Fulfilment of the Antique Purplemania
Blue: from Kingly Regional to Globally Democratic
Red and Yellow: from Micro to Macro Scales
What Future for Natural Colorants in the Dawning Era of Renewable Resources?History of Natural Dyes in North Africa ‘Egypt’
Harby Ezzeldeen AhmedNatural Dyes in Pharaonic Textiles
Dyeing Techniques
Dye Sources
Woad
Indigo
Red
Yellow
Black
Brown
Green
Purple
Dyeing in Coptic Textiles
Wool Dyed Fabric with Natural Dye
Dyes in Islamic Textiles
MordantsRegional Aspects of Availability of Plant SourcesDye Plants in Europe
Andrea Biertu¨mpfel and Gu¨nter WurlPotential European Dye Plants
Cultivation of Dye Plants Yesterday and Now
Modern Cultivation Methods for Important European Dye Plants
General Facts
Blue Dyeing Plants
Red Dyeing Plants
Yellow Dyeing Plants
Brown Dyeing Plants
Production of Dye Extracts
Relevant Examples for the Application
Conclusions, Discussion and SummaryDyes in South America
Veridiana Vera de Rosso and Adriana Zerlotti MercadanteAnnatto
Turmeric
Marigold
Cochineal and CarmineNatural Dyes in Eastern Asia (Vietnam and Neighbouring Countries)
Hoang Thi LinhAnnatto (Botanical Name Bixa orellana L., Family Bixaceae)
Tea (Botanical Name Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze, Family Theaceae)
Umbrella Tree (Botanical Name Terminalia catappa L., Family Combretaceae)
Diospyros mollis – Mackloeur (Botanical Name Diospyros mollis L. Griff, Family Ebenaceae)
Indigo (Botanical Name Indigofera L., Family Fabaceae)
Indigofera tinctoria L
Indigofera galegoides DC
Strobilanthes cusia (Baphicacanthus)
Henna (kok khan, or khao youak in Laos) (Botanical Name Lawsonia spinosa L., Family Lythraceae)
Nacre (Botanical Name Khaya senegalensis, Family Meliaceae)
Sappan Wood (Botanical Name Caesalpinia sappan L., Family Fabaceae)
Sophora japonica Flowers (Botanical Name Sophora japonica L., Family Leguminosae)
Turmeric (Botanical Name Curcuma longa L., Family Zingiberaceae)
Sapodilla (Botanical Name Manilkara zapota L. or Achras zapota, Family Sapotaceae)
Betel (Botanical Name Piper betle L., Family Piperaceae)
Eucalyptus (Botanical Name Eucalyptus, Family Myrtaceae)
Caesalpinia Yellow (Botanical Name Caesalpinia pulcherrima L., Family Fabaceae)
Brow-tuber (Botanical Name Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour, Family Dioscoreaceae)Colorant Production and PropertiesIndigo – Agricultural Aspects
Philip John and Luciana Gabriella AngeliniIsatis
Introduction
Agronomy
Persicaria (Polygonum)Agronomy
IndigoferaIndigo – Extraction
Philip JohnMethods of Determining Indigo
Precursors in the Plants and Indigo Formation
Extraction Procedures
Traditional Process Using Crushed Leaf Material Steeping in Water
Purity of Natural IndigoAnthocyanins: Nature’s Glamorous Palette
Maria J. Melo, Fernando Pina and Claude Andary
Chemical Basis
Chemical Structures
Equilibria in Solution
Colour and Colour Stability
Anthocyanins as Antioxidants
Natural Sources for Anthocyanins
Plant Sources, Content, Influencing Parameters
Applications
Food Colorants
Other Uses
Examples of Commercial Products and ProcessingNatural Colorants – Quinoid, Naphthoquinoid and Anthraquinoid Dyes
Thomas BechtoldBenzoquinone Dyes
Naphthoquinone Dyes
Lawson (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, CI Natural Orange 6)
Juglone (5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, CI Natural Brown 7)
Anthraquinone Dyes
Main Components Emodin and Chrysophanol – Rheum Species and Rumex Species
Main Components Alizarin and/or Pseudopurpurin/Purpurin
Other Sources of Anthraquinoid DyesDyes from Lichens and Mushrooms
Riikka Ra¨isa¨nen
Use of Lichen and Mushroom Dyes in the Past
Cultivation of Lichens and Mushrooms
Dyestuffs in Lichens and Mushrooms
Lichen Dyestuffs: Orchils and Litmus
Yellowish, Brownish and Reddish Colorants from Lichen
Benzoquinone Derivatives
Anthraquinones
Other Colorants of Fungi
Colour-fastness of Lichen and Mushroom Dyes
New Approaches to Lichen and Fungal Natural DyesTannins and Tannin Agents
Riitta Julkunen-Tiitto and Hely Ha¨ggmanChemical Structure, Biosynthesis and Degradation
Properties of Tannins
Chemical Activities of Tannins
Analysis of Tannins
Sample Preservation
Extraction and Purification
Quantification of Tannins
Use, Toxicology and Safety Aspects of TanninsCarotenoid Dyes – Properties
U. Gamage ChandrikaOccurrence of Carotenoids
Chemistry of Carotenoids
Chemical Characteristics of Natural Carotenoids
Properties and Functions of Carotenoids
Carotenoids Role as Pro-vitamin A
Use of Carotenoids as Markers of Dietary Practices
Carotenoids as Antioxidants
Carotenoids in the Macular Region of the Retina
Carotenoids as Anticancer Agent
Carotenoids as a Natural Colorant
General Procedure for Carotenoid Analysis
Sampling
Extraction
Saponification of Carotenoids
Chromatographic Separation
Chemical Tests
Detection and Identification of Carotenoids
Quantification of Carotenoids
Problems in Carotenoid AnalysisCarotenoid Dyes – Production
U. Gamage Chandrika
Factors Influencing Carotenoid Composition in Plant Sources
Stage of Maturity
Cultivar or Varietal Differences
Climatic or Geographic Effects
Post-harvest Storage and Packing
Changes in Processing/Cooking
Effect of AgrochemicalsChlorophylls
Ursula Maria Lanfer Marquez and Daniela BorrmannChlorophylls as Colorants
Other Applications of Chlorophylls and their Derivatives
Chemical Structures and Physicochemical Properties
Stability and Analysis
Sources, Storage and Handling
Purity, Standardization and Quality Control
Toxicological and Safety AspectsApplication in Technical Use and Consumer Products[u]

Flavonoids as Natural Pigments
[u]M. Monica Giusti and Taylor C. WallaceRole of Localized Flavonoids in the Plant
General Flavonoid Chemical Structure
Biosynthesis of Flavonoids
Anthocyanins as Natural Colorants
Color Stability
Structure
Structural Transformation and pH
Temperature
Oxygen and Ascorbic Acid
Light
Enzymes and Sugars
Sulfur Dioxide
Co-pigmentation and Metal Complexation
Other Flavonoids as Natural Colorants
Yellow Flavonoid Pigments
Tannins
Therapeutic Effects of Flavonoids in the Diet
Regulations on the Use of Flavonoid ColorantsApplication of Natural Dyes in the Coloration of Wood
Martin Weigl, Andreas Kandelbauer, Christian Hansmann, Johannes Po¨ckl, Ulrich Mu¨ller and Michael GrabnerGeneral Basics
Color Measurement
Color Stability
Coatings
Dyes
Dyeing for Analytical Purposes
Impregnation
Color Modification
Drying
Steaming
Thermal Treatment
Ammoniation
Bleaching
Enzymatic Treatment
Radiation
OutlookNatural Colorants in Textile Dyeing
Rita A. M. Mussak and Thomas Bechtold
Introduction
Reasons for Natural Coloration
Analysis of a Dyeing Process
Water
Energy
Dyestuff and Chemicals (Mordants and Auxiliaries)
Machinery
Basics of Natural Dyeings
Requirements of the Dyestuff
Dye-ability of Substrates
Standardization of the Dyestuff
Ecological Aspects
Aspects of Application
Dyeing Technology
Mordanting
Standardization of the Coloration Process
Mixtures of Plant Material
Natural Dyes on an Industrial Scale
Hank Dyeing of Woolen Yarn and Production of Woolen Caps
Dyeing of Cones in a Yarn Dyeing Machine
Dyeing of Cotton Fabric on a Jet Dyeing Machine
Dyeing of Cotton Fabric on a Jig Dyeing Machine
Fabric Dyeing on a Garment Dyeing Machine
Dyeing of Polyamide Tights in a Paddle Dyeing MachineNatural Colorants in Hair Dyeing
Thomas BechtoldHuman Hair
General Requirements on Hair Dyeing Concepts
Chemical Principles of Dyestuff Binding
Relevant Natural Dyes for Hair Dyeing
Naphthoquinone Dyes – Henna and Walnut
Indigo
Metal Complexes
Metal Reaction Dyes
Anthraquinoid Dyes
Specialities
RegulationsEnvironmentalEnvironmental Aspects and Sustainability
Erika GanglbergerSupply of Plant Material
Cultivation of Dye Plants
Residual Materials and By-products
Selection Process for a Sustainable Supply of Plant Material
Processing to Dyestuff
Energy Consumption
Water Consumption
Application of Colouring Matter
Dyeing Procedure
Considerations Concerning the Life Cycle
Raw Material
Processing of Raw Material
Extraction of Dyestuff
Dyeing Procedure
TransportDealing with SustainabilityEconomic Aspects of Natural Dyes
Susanne GeisslerBasic Requirements for the Industrial Use of Natural Colorants
Challenges for the Industrial Use of Natural Colorants
Quality of Raw Material and Reproducibility of Colours
Range of Available Colours
Consumer Expectations
Market Research for Naturally Dyed Products
Production Costs of Natural Colorant Products
Cost Categories
Aspects Influencing Production Costs
Prices of Synthetic Dyes – How Much Are Textile Companies Prepared to Pay for Dyes?
Acceptable Production Costs through a Mixed Portfolio (Agricultural Primary Production and Residues from Other Production Processes)
Closed-Loop Economy: Towards a Zero-Emission and Zero-Waste Society
Conclusion: Aspects Influencing Market Development for Natural Colorants